
Bike 101
The longest leg by time. You don't need a $10K aero machine — you need a bike that fits, works, and won't leave you walking to the run.
Bike Selection
You probably already own something that works. Here's how to choose, and when (if ever) to upgrade.
| Type | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Road Bike | Sprint, Olympic, Half | Drop bars, aggressive geometry — excellent for all distances. Most versatile. |
| Mountain Bike | Sprint, short courses | Heavy and slower, but legal. Works fine for your first sprint. Swap to slick tires. |
| Hybrid / Commuter | Sprint | Upright position is less aero but comfortable. Use what you have and focus on fitness. |
| Tri / TT Bike | Olympic, Half, Full | Aero bars, aggressive fit. Not for beginners — the fit is unforgiving. Earn it later. |
| Gravel Bike | Sprint, Olympic | Versatile, slightly less aero than road. Excellent choice if you ride mixed terrain too. |
Bike Fit Is Non-Negotiable
- A proper fit prevents knee, back, and neck problems before they start.
- Saddle height: most common error is too low — causes knee pain and killed power.
- Reach: if your lower back aches within 30 minutes, your reach is probably too long.
- Visit a local bike shop for a basic fit. Even a free fitting is better than guessing.
- A fit is cheaper than physical therapy — do it before your first long training ride.
Pro tip: Bring your cycling shoes to the fit appointment. Cleat position affects knee alignment and is part of the fit — don't let the shop skip it.
Getting a Bike If You Don\'t Have One
The best bike is the one you'll actually ride. Don't let perfect be the enemy of rideable. A used $400 road bike wins every time over no bike at all.
- Check Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist for used bikes — good deals exist.
- Slowtwitch Classifieds and TriRig list used tri-specific bikes.
- Local triathlon clubs often have equipment loan programs or group buys.
- Renting for your first race is a perfectly reasonable option.
- Budget: a functional used road bike for a first sprint starts around $300–500.
Helmet — No Helmet, No Race
- A helmet is mandatory at every triathlon. No exceptions. Show up without one and you don't race.
- CPSC or ASTM certified — almost all helmets sold in shops meet this.
- Fit: straps form a V around your ears, buckle snug under chin (one finger gap).
- Aero helmets help at Olympic and longer; skip them until you're riding fast enough for aero to matter.
- Replace after any crash or significant impact, even without visible damage.
Pro tip: Store your helmet in your transition bag after every ride. You will never show up to a race without it — and you will never have to do the panicked parking lot check.
⚙️ Cycling Fundamentals
Cadence & Gearing
Think of the bike as where you build momentum for the run, not where you leave everything on course. Spinning easy preserves your legs for what comes after.
- Cadence is your pedaling rate in RPM. Target 80–90 RPM on flat terrain.
- Grinding a big gear at 60 RPM destroys your legs for the run.
- Use easier gears on climbs to maintain cadence, not grind to a halt.
- A basic cycling computer with cadence display is worth having.
- If your knees ache after riding, you're likely pushing too hard a gear.
Pedals & Shoes
- Clipless pedals (the confusingly named clip-in system) improve power transfer.
- Expect to fall over at a slow stop at least once. It's a rite of passage.
- Practice clipping out repeatedly in a parking lot before riding in traffic.
- Mountain bike shoes with recessed cleats walk normally — ideal for triathlon.
- Road cleats stick out and make walking awkward in T2; mountain cleats are easier.
Pro tip: The fall is coming — it\'s not if, it\'s when. Practice clipping out in a quiet parking lot before taking clipless pedals anywhere near traffic or other riders.
Climbing PNW Hills
If you can\'t hold a conversation on a climb, you\'re going too hard. Shift down, keep the cadence spinning, and save the legs for what comes after. Hills that feel brutal in training feel manageable on race day when adrenaline shows up.
- PNW courses are rarely flat — account for elevation in your training.
- Shift before the climb, not once you're grinding.
- Sit back on the saddle and maintain cadence rather than standing and mashing.
- Standing sprints are fine for short punchy climbs; sit and spin for longer ones.
- Train on hills similar to your race course — Strava or RideWithGPS show elevation.
Descending Safely
- Brake before corners, not in them — trail your brakes out of corners.
- Feather brakes (light intermittent pressure) rather than grabbing hard.
- Lower your center of gravity on steep descents — pedals at 3 and 9, push outside pedal.
- Look where you want to go, not at the pothole you're trying to avoid.
- Wet roads in PNW conditions: double your braking distance.
Pro tip: Speed on a descent is free energy. Crashing costs you the race and possibly more. Take the corner conservatively every single time until you know the road cold.
Safety & Race Rules
Read the athlete guide for your specific race. Some shorter events are draft-legal. Assuming the rules without checking is how you earn a time penalty.
- No drafting in most triathlon bike legs. Maintain 3 bike lengths (roughly 7m) behind.
- You have 15 seconds to pass once you enter the draft zone.
- No outside assistance on course — if you flat, you fix it yourself.
- Signal turns and communicate with others during training group rides.
- Know your route before every training ride — PNW trails vary widely in cell coverage.
PNW-Specific Conditions
- Rain makes roads slick — especially the first rain after a dry spell (oil in the road).
- Wet leaves are like ice — treat them that way in September–November.
- Invest in fenders and rain gear; year-round training is how PNW triathletes stay competitive.
- Visibility: use front and rear lights in low-light training (October–March).
- Wind on coastal and exposed routes can be brutal — include it in your training.
Pro tip: The athletes who train through PNW winters are the ones who race well in May. Gear up, embrace the rain, and you\'ll show up to race day with a fitness base others don\'t have.
🛞 Flat Tire Repair — Step by Step
A flat on race day is survivable. A flat you can't fix is a DNF. Practice this at home until it takes under 5 minutes.
What to Carry
- Spare tube (correct size for your wheel)
- Two tire levers
- CO₂ cartridge + inflator head OR mini pump
- Patch kit (backup, in case of a second flat)
- Optional: boot patch for sidewall cuts
Repair Steps
- 1.Remove wheel (rear: shift to smallest cog first).
- 2.Deflate fully and unseat one tire bead with levers.
- 3.Remove the tube; find the puncture by feel or air pressure.
- 4.Check inside the tire for debris — run your finger around the inside.
- 5.Seat new tube starting at the valve hole; work tube in with fingers.
- 6.Re-seat tire bead by hand; avoid levers if possible to prevent pinch flats.
- 7.Inflate to ~80% pressure, check seating, then fill to riding pressure.
- 8.Reinstall wheel and test brakes before rolling.
🍌 Nutrition on the Bike
Sprint Distance (Under 1hr)
Even for a sprint, bring one bottle. It's hot at T2, your legs are already working, and arriving at the run slightly hydrated is noticeably better than arriving depleted.
- Water is usually sufficient — no need for complex nutrition.
- Take a sip at the 15 and 30 minute marks if riding over 40 minutes.
- Skip gels for a first sprint unless you've practiced taking them while riding.
- Your fueling problem at sprint distance is more likely the run than the bike.
Olympic & Longer
- Target 30–60g of carbohydrate per hour on the bike.
- Options: sports drink in a bottle, gels, chews, real food for long rides.
- Practice eating and drinking while riding well before race day.
- Never try a new product on race day — GI distress on a 40K bike course is memorable.
Pro tip: Start eating at minute 10, not when you feel hungry. By the time hunger registers on the bike, you\'re already behind on fueling and the run will pay the price.
Hydration
Pre-hydrate the day before race day. Race morning hydration can\'t compensate for showing up already in a mild deficit after travel, nerves, and a warm-up.
- Drink to thirst on efforts under 2 hours — don't force fluid.
- In warm PNW summer conditions: 500–750ml per hour on the bike.
- Water-only events: carry enough for the distance; know aid station locations.
- Electrolytes matter for Half/Full distances — pure water leads to dilution.
🧮 Bike Split Calculator
Typical Bike Splits
| Distance | Beginner | Intermediate |
|---|---|---|
| Sprint (20km) | ~48 min | ~36 min |
| Olympic (40km) | ~1h 36m | ~1h 12m |
| Half (90km) | ~3h 36m | ~2h 42m |
| Full (180km) | ~7h 12m | ~5h 24m |
Beginner ≈ 25 kph / 15 mph · Intermediate ≈ 33 kph / 20 mph
Bike Split Calculator
❓ Common Bike Questions
What bike should I use for my first triathlon?
Any roadworthy bike. Road bikes, mountain bikes, hybrids. All are allowed and all finish races. A proper bike fit matters far more than bike type at the beginner level. Get fitted at a local shop before worrying about upgrading.
Do I need clipless pedals for triathlon?
No. Platform pedals with running shoes are completely fine for a first sprint race. Clipless pedals improve power transfer but carry a learning cost. You will fall over at a stop at least once. Mountain bike shoes with recessed cleats are the best middle ground when you're ready to make the switch.
What cadence should I target on the bike?
For most beginners, 80–90 RPM on flat terrain is an efficient target. Grinding a big gear at 60 RPM burns your legs and leaves them cooked for the run. Use a gear that lets you spin freely rather than push hard.
How do I fuel on the bike?
For sprint distance (under 1 hour of riding), water is often enough. For Olympic and longer, aim for 30–60g of carbohydrate per hour: sports drink, gels, or real food. Practice eating and drinking while riding in training; fumbling with a gel on race day is a comedic and avoidable disaster.